Cauliflower is the new kale. Could it be? Let’s discuss.
In previous posts, I’ve sung high praises regarding the
versatility and chameleonic qualities of my fair-haired cruciferous
friend. Milder than its broccoli cousin,
cauliflower flocks the entire texture spectrum, spanning from a prodigious,
burly whole-headed steak to a delicate, fine grain of pulsed couscous. These extremes are certainly fun, but I have
to say that my favorite treatment lies in the equilibrium: regular oven-roasted
florets. Because when they are good, they are soooo good. Cue Gjelina’s Roasted Cauliflower with Garlic, Parsley
& Vinegar.
In the way that certain vegetables become hipsterishly
fashionable (yes I’m talking about you Brussels sprouts, nestled smugly on the
menu in between the hand-cut bacon cheeseburger and casual avocado toast),
cauliflower is slowing rising up in the ranks of popular vegetable starters and
sides that people can just NOT.GET.ENOUGH.OF. “OMG did you try the cauliflower
at X?” someone will shout, eyes wide. “No, I can’t get a reservation until 2019
but I heard it’s AMAZING,” is the breathless reply. And so, cauliflower climbs
the predictable curve of the HFV (hipsterish fashionable vegetable, that is),
basking in Hollywood glory at its peak until it meets the inevitable fate of
the kale Caesar salad and homemade brioche croutons. (I know it’s no longer a
new phenomenon but is it really necessary to get angry when you see it on the
menu? Let’s think about this rationally).
Sadly, this newfound stardom means that cauliflower will
encounter dressings of questionable nature—in relation to health, that is.
Swimming in oil or butter, or worse, dare I say bacon (please let this be the
one vegetable that avoids the porcine food trend, please!) ensures that even the
pickiest of eaters will enjoy the cool cruciferous. But this treatment is a
cheat. Garbage bags would be tasty if roasted in copious quantities of
various fats. We must let the cauliflower speak for itself!
Which is why you might be surprised that the it recipe I can’t stop raving about is
unabashedly simple. Five additional ingredients. 13 minutes total cook time—aka
speed of light in vegetable roasting years, where 45 minutes is considered
quick. And still, it manages to emerge beautifully charred, slightly crunchy,
and impossibly moist, with a touch of salt and oil that enhances instead of
overpowers.
And then there’s the matter of the garlic confit. Slow-roasted whole garlic cloves swimming in a sea of olive
oil and perfumed thyme sprigs and bay leaves, these tiny half-moons
unapologetically burst with herbaceous flavor, immediately transcending your
everyday garlic clove to an enchanted garden, riddled with flavor subtleties
of grassy and botanical notes. Make a
whole batch, it will keep in your fridge for 2 months—and I dare you to go back
to regular garlic ever again.
So, I think I answered it—yes, cauliflower is definitely the
new kale. Enjoy it while it’s trendy, enjoy when its long forgotten. But if you
stick to this recipe, I doubt that will ever be the case.
Roasted Cauliflower
with Garlic, Parsley & Vinegar (from Gjelina)
Serves 4 as a side
dish
Ingredients:
1 head cauliflower, trimmed and chopped into large florets
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil (use as little as 3 Tbsp if you prefer less oil)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves Garlic Confit (see recipe below), chopped finely
2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar (white wine vinegar works too)
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees F.
2. In a medium bowl, toss the cauliflower with the olive oil
and season with salt and pepper.
3. Heat a large cast-iron* frying pan over high heat. Dump the cauliflower into the hot pan and
cook until starting to brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and
roast the cauliflower, undisturbed until well seared, about 5 minutes longer.
With a spatula, turn the cauliflower and cook on the other side until well
seared, about 3 minutes longer.
4. Remove from the oven, add the garlic confit, parsley, red
pepper flakes and and stir to distribute the seasonings and toast the garlic
slightly. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Transfer to a serving platter. Serve warm or at room
temperature.
*If you don’t have a cast-iron frying pan, use a non-stick
skillet instead. When cauliflower is ready to go into the oven, transfer to an
oven-safe baking sheet lined with tin foil and a light mist of olive oil so it
doesn’t stick.
Garlic Confit
Makes 4 cups
Ingredients:
2 cups extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
8 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled (1 head = 10
cloves)
12 fresh thyme sprigs
3 bay leaves, bruised
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. In a medium baking dish, combine the olive oil, garlic,
thyme, and bay leaves. The garlic should be completely covered by about 1 inch
of oil.
3. Bake until the garlic cloves are soft, fragrant, and
lightly browned but still hold their shape, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from
oven, let cool to room temperature.
4. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up
to 2 months, completely covered with olive oil to prevent air from reaching
them.
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